Running for hundreds of dollars and sold in boxes that could house a small child, you are in for a long and fulfilling build. Called Perfect Grade (or PG), these are the Hilton of model kits. Older shows also had plain 1/100 model kits that are similar in quality to the Re/100 line as well.įinally, there’s the 1/60 scale. This allowed Bandai to make a fan-beloved design with the armor detail of a Master Grade kit, but also avoid the expensive internal armor frame. There are also some other kits made at the 1/100 scale, such as the Re/100 scale for more obscure robot designs. Pair of 1/144 High-Grade versions for scale. These kits tend to focus on the more popular units of a show, with more obscure units staying at the 1/144 scale unless they can make it on the cheap. These kits tend to be larger, often have their own internal skeletons, and will either be hyper-detailed or designed to be reasonably cartoon-accurate. Going larger, the Master Grade line runs at a 1/100 scale. They look amazing but are also not recommended for beginners or those wishing to build casually. These are insanely detailed, with full internal skeletons, incredible detail, tons of stickers, and really tiny fiddly bits. There are also the Real Grade (or RG) kits at the 1/144 level. These are slightly simpler, but much more color accurate and have fewer needs. Some 1/144 scale kits lack the HG marker but are labeled Entry Grade instead. You can often find sticker sets that add detail to these kits, but they are also often fairly well detailed without them. These are all literally their proper sizes, at 1/144th scale. The average size is often around 4 to 5 inches high.įrom left to right: PEN-01B Momokapool and the pilot unit, PMX-003 The O, and RX-78-2US American-Type Gundam. This can make some wildly different sizes for the kits themselves, but they all tend to be the same quality of build overall. These are scaled in proportion to the giant pretend robot on-screen and are all 1/144 the size the show says it is. Jumping up, there is the High Grade (or HG) kit. Older kits in this style are even simpler and have a charm all their own about them. The current style is SDCS (Super Deformed Cross Silhouette), which allows for a builder choice between cutely tiny and a more proportioned kit with knees and elbows. These are found with a variety of designs and line names. As such, they almost make the perfect beginner model kit. Super Deformed (or SD for short) kits are pretty common and fairly inexpensive. Does that Hello Kitty crossover Gundam kit catch your eye, or are you wanting to make a super-serious war mech? So, the best thing to start with is what kind of model kit you want to build. Included above: all major scales of Gundam kits. At the very least, you might be able to find a kit you wanna try out from the extensive catalog. It’s an amazing website, and we have borrowed some of their images for this article when necessary.Ĭheck them out! While the website is in Korean, there is an English version for the kit lists and main pages. In this (admittedly long) article, we will look at the different kinds of model kits available, how to build a kit, what accessories you can consider using while building the kit, and even tips and tricks I’ve run into over the years.īefore we get started, I would like to say thanks to for being an unending source of images and reviews about Gunpla from the earliest days of the hobby to the bleeding edge of model kits. If you’re looking for a particularly good time sink and something with results you can show off, there’s always Gundam plastic model kits or Gunpla. With the recent (and still ongoing) once-in-a-lifetime global pandemic still raging to some level, a lot of people have had more free time to find new hobbies.
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